2009 March | Bridget McNulty

Archive for March, 2009

My first US book review!

// March 31st, 2009 // 2 Comments » // Reviews, Strange Nervous Laughter

In Publisher’s Weekly, at that! And it’s lovely.

Here it is, go to their website to see it in real life!

Strange Nervous Laughter Bridget McNulty. St. Martin’s/Dunne, $23.95 (256p) ISBN 978-0-312-54434-8
The lives of six people collide in McNulty’s magical realism–infused debut set in the South African city of Durban during the hottest summer on record. Beth, a cashier at a small grocery, is on duty when the store is robbed. She and the two customers, Mdu and Meryl, are unharmed but shaken. Soon after the robbery, Beth—who floats when she’s happy—begins dating Pravesh, an undertaker who can sense death by a tingling at the back of his knees and heat in his ears. Mdu, who can speak to whales, meets Aisha, who’s so caught up in her dreams that reality fails to register. Meryl, an assistant at Guinness World Records, is sent to interview Harry, who is trying to set a world record for eating only green foods. Though the characters fall in and out of love, the novel is not a romance but rather an examination of love, the ways we respond to it and how we delude ourselves about our choices. While the themes may sound weighty, McNulty’s light touch and evocative descriptions of Durban make for an absorbing read. (May)

Don’t sell your happiness…

// March 30th, 2009 // 2 Comments » // Decisions, Life (and the living of it), Philosophy

… for a bag of chips.

We had the most wonderful Practical Philosophy class last week – the final in our 5 week Happiness course. There have been a number of gems in the class, and I’ll be writing about them in weeks to come, as I process them and start practising them in every day life… but one idea really stuck out for me.

We were listening to a speaker and he said to us, “If I offered you a hundred rand, or a thousand rand, or even ten thousand rand for your happiness, you’d laugh at me, wouldn’t you?” Think about it – your present and future happiness, for a lump sum? Not a good deal. “But look at the way you’re living your life,” he says. And then proceeds to explain how we sell our happiness every day, and for a lot less than a thousand rand. If our breakfast is cooked badly, if the garage door won’t open, if someone says something unkind to us, if the weather is bad, if there’s a drill going on in the background – we sell our happiness for all these things, every day.

It really got me thinking. Because there are times when I’ll get thrown off by the smallest thing without even thinking about it, and it’s only hours later that it will occur to me that this whole mood started from something tiny and insignificant. I’ve caught myself literally selling my happiness for a bag of chips (they don’t make me feel well, yet every so often my will power crumbles and I eat them. And then I feel bad about it. So bloody stupid! But human, I suppose).

Yes, yes, that’s all very well, I hear you say, but what can we do about it? Let go. Let go of all the little things that bug you, and don’t pick them up again. It is faar easier said than done, but it’s possible. On a day to day, moment to moment, irritation to irritation level. What do you think?

Don’t sell your happiness. There’s no price tag that could be worth it.

Mmm… crisps.

Earth Hour 2009. A little… underwhelming.

// March 30th, 2009 // 5 Comments » // Cape Town, Life (and the living of it)

I was really excited about Earth Hour this year. I’m a fan of all things that involve candlelight and helping the environment (especially when they’re as easy as switching off your lights for an hour) and I thought Cape Town would jump on the bandwagon.

In fact, I was so certain that Cape Town would jump on the bandwagon that I dragged my man from a friend’s braai to a lookout point so that we could see the Grand Switch-Off. We weren’t the only ones with this bright idea – Signal Hill, Cape Town’s premier lookout point, that gives you a panoramic view out over the city, was blocked off there were so many cars lining its roads. And Table Mountain, where we found a spot, was full of people who’d made a special journey to see the city plunge into darkness at 8.30pm.

There was a really lovely atmosphere – a tangible excitement as people found parking spots, hopped out of their cars, set up video cameras and tucked into the baskets of snacks they’d brought along for the show. Here it is! I thought. A Real Earth Hour.

8.25pm…. 8.29pm… 8.30pm and the first building went dark. “Did you see that?” I asked my man excitedly. He had. Then the large red ABSA light, a beacon for Capetonians living in the City Bowl, went out. Very cool. And then another building! And then? Nothing. 8.35pm… 8.39pm…. 8.41pm… and nothing. That was it. The rest of the city remained ablaze. Everyone waited around hopefully for another couple of minutes, but it was obvious that that was the show. It had ended not with a bang but a whimper.

And so a whole heap of disgruntled earth lovers headed down the mountain and back to their dark homes.
(Yes, I am well aware of the irony of using extra petrol and sitting in a traffic jam to get to a lookout point for an environmental ‘moment’. I had a little giggle when I saw a cluster of Earth Hour fans huddled under a street light looking out over the city and waiting for it to turn out its lights.)

Now, there are a number of reasons why Earth Hour was such an underwhelming sight. Most of the orange city lights are municipal, and it must cost a lot to switch them on and off. Eskom probably begged them not to, because of the resultant power surge. Also, even if individuals in their flats switched their lights off, there are those automated passageway lights that remain alight. And there’s the safety issue, of course. Hell, maybe some people forgot about it and only realised the next day.

Which is why my suggestion for next year is for the City of Cape Town to fire the Noon Gun or set off a few dozen fireworks from a high place, so that the whole city can tell that now it is Earth Hour, unplug and switch off, or else! A bit of extra awareness wouldn’t go astray, either.
What do you think might help?

And the final leg… Italy to Home.

// March 27th, 2009 // 3 Comments » // Inspiration, travelling

Almost exactly a year today!

We’ll cross over into ITALY around the 31st of March, and drive across the North to VENICE, the city of canals. With 1400 years of history and our first taste of Italian food, this is sure to be a memorable stop… From Venice we’ll stop over at SAN MARINO, Europe’s third smallest state (after the Vatican and Monaco) to check out the place where the Grand Prix takes place (!) and then head on to TUSCANY. FLORENCE is home to beautiful countryside and great food, but also to some of the world’s greatest Renaissance art. And then from Tuscany we’ll head to ROME, to indulge in their cafés, history, architecture and culture. There are rumours that the best pizza in the world is made in Rome… Watch this space! We’ll drop off our car, and exit Italy, at BARI.

From there, we’ll catch a ferry over to DUBROVNIK in Croatia, arriving on the 16th of April. Dubrovnik is a city of marble streets and Baroque buildings on the Adriatic coast. We’ll explore the museums and sights, and then head off to discover what Croatia is famous for – island paradise. MLJET ISLAND sounds like just such a paradise, 72% of the island is forest, and there are two saltwater lakes. By this stage, we’ll probably need some down time, so if we spend a week on a paradisical island, that will be just fine!

Our second-to-last country is GREECE, where we’ll land in ATHENS on the 2nd of May. We’ll spend a day or two seeing the Parthenon Temple in Athens, soaking up the vibrant street life and walking along Europe’s longest pedestrian promenade. Then we’ll take a ferry to the island of SKIATHOS, where pine-fringed beaches and picturesque monasteries give a picture postcard view of Greek island life. From Skiathos there’s a ferry to CRETE, Greece’s largest island and a place of stunning natural beauty, traditional mountain villages and treasures off the beaten path.

We end our epic journey in TURKEY, where we’ll land in ISTANBUL on the 18th of May. Istanbul has a lot to offer, from the Tokapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar, to historic buildings and tranquil cay bahcesi (tea gardens). Once we’ve drunk our fill of Istanbul we’ll head to CAPPADOCIA by an overnight bus. Cappadocia is home to hotels built in caves, ancient churches, fairy chimneys, hot air ballons and Byzantine frescoes. Magical, no?
And finally, to end our trip, we’ll spend a few days lying on the beach of the TURQUOISE COAST, catching our breath after ten months of travel, and gearing up for the Soccer World Cup in CAPE TOWN when we return home!

872618_sunset_in_istanbul

Argentina to Spain…

// March 26th, 2009 // No Comments » // Inspiration, travelling

The only problem with all this itinerary-ing is that it’s making me itchy to hop on a plane and leave! This is the 4th leg (of 5) of the itinerary, so we’re looking at early next year…

We’ll arrive in ARGENTINA in BARILOCHE, from the Lake Crossing, on the 19th of January. Bariloche just so happens to be Argentina’s chocolate capital! And the Lake District’s principal destination, with beautiful mountain scenery and loads of activities in the area. From Bariloche it’s possible to fly to EL CALAFATE in PATAGONIA, which we definitely want to do for a few days. Patagonia is home to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, which is home to Glaciar Moreno, one of the most dynamic and accessible ice fields in the world, and one of the only glaciers that is ‘stable’, not receding. It sounds magical!
From Patagonia we’ll fly to BUENOS AIRES to soak up what is apparently an extraordinary city… We’ll definitely have to go to a soccer game, try out a tango lesson and eat one of their famous steaks. We’ve been told there are old-world cafés, markets and bohemian streets to explore… Yes, please!

Next we’re off to PERU, landing in LIMA on the 8th of February. Lima sounds fascinating, the fading luxury of Spanish colonial architecture mixed with glitzy, modern shopping malls and excellent museums. Not to mention the fresh seafood in ocean-side restaurants! After a few days in the city, we’ll head to CUZCO, the archaelogical capital of the Americas, and the starting point of the Inca Trail… The four day trail is closed for maintenance for the whole of February, but we’ll be able to do the two day trail (which has the added bonus on being easier to acclimatize to!) We’ll hike the 2 day trail to visit MACHU PICCHU, and view the lost Inca city.
From Cuzco, we’ll fly to PUERTO MALDONADO, the gateway to some of the most unspoilt yet accessible AMAZON JUNGLE sites in the country. You can supposedly see, hear and feel the Amazon jungle like nowhere else in Peru. Amazing.

From PERU we head off to BRAZIL, landing in SAO PAULO, the cultural capital of Brazil on the 24th of February. We’ll spend a few days here getting to know the Paulistanos (the residents) and then take a bus to CURITIBA, where we’ll catch a train to PARANAGUA. The train between Curitiba and Paranagua is said to be one of the marvels of travel in Brazil because of the extraordinary coastal mountain range it passes through, Serro do Mar, and it only runs on Sundays. We’ll be waiting. Once we arrive in Paranagua we’ll catch a ferry to ILHA DO MEL, a pristine beach island only accessible by boat. It sounds incredible, there are three small villages on the island, but it’s tranquil and isolated, the picture of serenity.
From there we’ll find our way to RIO DE JANEIRO, a melting pot of cultures. We want to check out COPACABANA beach, see Christ the Redeemer, and experience the extraordinary nightlife.

Next, it’s off to SPAIN, flying into MADRID on the 12th of March. Madrid is supposed to be full of grand boulevards, art museums, nightlife, and tapas galore! We’ll rent a car there, and drive from Madrid to VALENCIA, to soak up the Muslim heritage and culture (and spend some time on the beaches). If we’re lucky, we’ll be in time to catch some of the six day Las Fallas Spring Festival, a celebration of spring with flowers and fireworks. From there we’ll drive to BARCELONA, Gaudi’s city. Picasso, Miro, the beach, the amazing bakeries and day trips to Roses and Sitges make Barcelona an exciting stop.
To get to ITALY, we’ll drive through the SOUTH OF FRANCE, PROVENCE in particular, which is supposed to be one of the most romantic areas on earth. Lovely!

USA to Chile…

// March 25th, 2009 // 1 Comment » // Inspiration, travelling

After JAPAN we’re off to the USA, starting in SAN FRANCISCO on the 17th of November, and then driving around BIG SUR for a week. The scenery there is astounding – ancient trees, raw beauty and stillness – with no traffic lights, banks or shopping centres… Heaven. The plan is to drive from Big Sur to FRESNO, and from there through YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK and DEATH VALLEY to LAS VEGAS! I’m pretty sure Vegas will be overwhelming and exhausting, but you have to do it once, and it seems a waste for that once not to be now. We also want to see the GRAND CANYON, I’m excited about that.
After all that driving, our plan is to fly to MINNESOTA, the land of 10 000 lakes. Why Minnesota? We’re not sure really, but it’s supposed to be extraordinarly beautiful, and it has the Mississippi River and lots of stars, and MINNEAPOLIS is apparently full of cool things to do. It’s also the artiest town on the prairie, and the most charitable place in America! We’ll be in the USA for Thanksgiving (on the 26th of November), which makes us very very happy! We love feasts.

Next stop after the USA is MEXICO, on the 17th of December, our festive country of choice for Christmas and New Year. We land in MEXICO CITY, a vibrant and exciting city that some say is too hectic and others say is just wonderful. We’ll explore there for a few days, making sure to spend a good chunk of time in the amazing Anthropological Museum of Man, which is supposed to be incredible. Then we’ll catch a bus from there to OAXACA, a beautiful colonial city with great crafts, great ruins and great food. Sounds like a great place to spend Christmas! We also want to visit TEOTIHUACAN, 50km north of Mexico City, the site of two vast pyramids – the Piramide del Sol and the Piramde de la Luna. And then we’ll head back to Mexico City for their famous New Years Eve street party!

From MEXICO we fly to SANTIAGO in CHILE, arriving on the 3rd of January. Santiago is described as loud, dirty, cultured, quirky and ambitious, so once we’ve had a few days to work out which of these traits win out, we’ll head to VALPARAISO, the most unique city in Chile and a World Heritage Site. From the flat city centre you can take ascensores (funicular elevators) up steep hills, and wander around a city of faded grandeur and spontaneous bohemian charm. It sounds right up our alley!
From there we’ll travel to PUERTO VARAS for the Lake Crossing over into ARGENTINA. It can take one to three days, depending how fast you want to do it, and you cross over the Andes in three boats and four buses. The scenery is supposed to be out of this world…

A view of Chile from Lonely Planet… Wow!

Indonesia to Japan…

// March 24th, 2009 // 2 Comments » // Inspiration, travelling

Indulge me! Reading through our itinerary makes me believe just a little bit more that it’s actually going to happen… (This is Leg 2, by the way – Leg 1 was yesterday).
Next we’re off to INDONESIA, or, more specifically, to BALI. We’ll land on the 30th of September 2009, and explore Bali’s palaces, temples, rice terraces and beaches for a couple of days, before heading off to PEMUTERAN in the far North. Apparently there’s very little English spoken there, but it’s unspoilt and lovely, and you can catch a bus to the port and take a ferry to JAVA for the day, which would be great.
We also want to experience MUNDUK, an incredibly beautiful area with one of the highest waterfalls and a lot of small homesteads to stay in. The more ‘real’ Bali we can see, the better!

The 16th of October will see us jetting off to CHINA, where we’ll land in BEIJING. We have no idea what to expect from China, but we’re very curious to see what it’s like. Mao Zedong said that, “He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man” so we’ll definitely do a tour of the Great Wall. And we want to visit the Forbidden City in Beijing, the best preserved cluster of ancient buildings in China, off-limits to the world for 500 years. We’ll no doubt spend a few days exploring the city and eating lots of Chinese food!
We’ve been told, though, that SHANGHAI is the place to go in China, the most dynamic city in the world’s fastest-changing nation. We’ll be able to catch a train between the two cities, which is pretty handy. It’s apparently a city of stunning contrasts between old and new, and they have some great museums and galleries. It’s also home to the Yuyuan Gardens and Bazaar, a haven of shaded alcoves, glittering pools, pavilions and bamboo forests. Sounds stunning!

We haven’t decided yet if we want to fly into JAPAN on the 2nd of November, or take the ferry to OSAKA and then the bullet train to TOKYO. The ferry takes two nights, but it might be an intriguing journey… Once we’re in Japan, we want to explore Tokyo in depth. Supposedly one of the most fascinating cities on earth, with Zen temples rubbing shoulders with sci-fi cityscapes. Although we miss cherry blossom season, we’ve been told that autumn is the second-best, with dramatic orange and red foliage.
While we’re in Tokyo we’ll take a day trip to MOUNT FUJI, the highest mountain in Japan, at 3776m, and an icon in many Japanese pictures.
We’ll spend the second half of our time in Japan in KYOTO, home to 17 World Heritage sites, more than 1600 Buddhist temples, and over 400 Shinto shrines. Bamboo groves, geisha, temples and traditional restaurants are the norm in Kyoto, I can’t wait!

Cape Town to Vietnam…

// March 23rd, 2009 // 6 Comments » // Inspiration, travelling

I thought, seeing as I just threw that whole ‘oh-by-the-way-we’re-going-round-the-world’ thing at you last week, that maybe this week I should explain it all a bit better…

So sit back, relax, and join me on a 10 month armchair journey (over the next 5 days):

We leave CAPE TOWN on the 3rd of August 2009, and fly to HONG KONG for a week. There’s a six hour time difference, so this should give us enough time to readjust our body clocks to Asian time, as well as to explore Hong Kong a little. We’re keen to soak up some fishing village atmosphere by chartering a sampan (water taxi) for half an hour for a drive around the bay, and we want to experience Hong Kong’s bustling retail life at the Apliu Street Market. We’ll also visit the Chi Lin Nunnery, a large Buddhist complex rebuilt completely of wood in the style of the Tang dynasty in 1998. It’s supposed to be a serene place, filled with lotus ponds, bonsai tea plants, bougainvillea and quiet chanting. The perfect place to gather our thoughts before a ten month round-the-world trip!

From Hong Kong we fly to BANGKOK, in THAILAND, on the 11th of August. We’ll spend a few days in Bangkok, but we’re more interested in the natural side of Thailand (we can’t do much shopping because we’re trying to travel light!) so we’ll head off to CHIANG MAI quite soon after arriving. Chiang Mai is in the north, and is supposed to be relaxed and cultural, but newly hip. There are more than 300 temples in the area, and you can ride upriver on elephants. Amazing!
Next we want to travel to the islands of KO TAO and KO CHANG. Ko Tao is supposed to be lush, rugged, and romantic (and great for scuba diving) and you can walk around the whole island in a day, while Ko Chang is 70% virgin rainforest and filled with wildlife.

After Thailand we fly to CAMBODIA, landing in the capital, PHNOM PENH on the 27th of August. Phnom Penh is supposed to have striking museums and a beautiful riverside setting. It’s described as a ‘chaotic and charismatic’ city. Sounds fun!
From there we’ll catch a boat along the river to SIEM REAP, to visit the Angkor Wat temples – Cambodia’s 8th wonder of the world, and the world’s largest religious building.
We’ll also travel by bus to KRATIE, a lively riverside town with an extensive riverfront area and some of the best Mekong sunsets in the country. Hopefully we’ll catch sight of some rare Irrawaddy dolphins while we’re there!

VIETNAM comes after Cambodia. We’ll fly into HO CHI MINH CITY on the 12th of September and spend some time exploring the commercial heart of Vietnam, described as a riverside metropolis of old and new – the old Saigon. While we’re there we’ll visit the War Remnants Museum, which documents the Vietnam War from both sides, and the Ben Thanh Market in the centre of the city – one of the most famous landmarks with over 3000 stalls!
We also want to visit HOI AN, a city that retains much of the sense of history of Vietnam. Hopefully we’ll be there during one of their monthly full moon ‘Hoi An Legendary Nights’, when all motorbikes are banned from the Old Town, and it is transformed into a magical land of silk lanterns, traditional food, song and dance. Sounds incredible!
Vietnam is also home to HALONG BAY, a World Heritage Site for its hundreds of limestone peaks that tower high above the sea. We’ll organize to stay a few nights in a boat if we can, so we can get up close to the limestone.
And we want to visit the MEKONG DELTA, a watery world of bustling river towns and sleepy villages, floating markets and fresh fish galore… oh, and mosquitoes, apparently!